Showing posts with label Himalaya. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Himalaya. Show all posts

February 8, 2014

Kuari Pass TreK: The Winter Has Finally Come !!!!!!!



"The Winter is Coming !!!!" is one of the most often repeated phrase in the HBO series "Game Of Thrones". And this they have been repeating for the past 3 seasons and still there are no signs of the so called fierce winter on screen. But this fierce winter made an appearance off the screen, over majority of the Northern Hemisphere. Countries like US and Europe were literally freezing with around -20C temperatures thanks to the arctic polar vortex hovering above and on the other hand North India reeling under one of its fiercest winter it has witnessed in the recent times. With such a backdrop we were to undertake our first ever Himalayan Winter trek. With 2 summer Himalayan treks under our belt we were looking for something different this time and winter trek was the obvious answer to that.

Devprayag: Confluence of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi to form THE GANGA
View from Auli
By the afternoon of  January 10th 2014, we(shashi, SK, manju, harsha, senthil, vineeth, manju sr, rajkumar and myself) were all set for the trip. Just then got automated calls from the Indigo call center informing that our 5pm Delhi flight was delayed. Our adventure were to begin even before our trip was officially thrown open :P.  Since we had already booked our taxis to the airport we went ahead as previously scheduled. Got a mild surprise when the OLA cab arrived with a transgender behind the wheels. First time I came face to face with a transgender making a honest living. Thumbs up to OLA cabs for this initiative.

With Mt. Dronagiri in the Background
A Rustic village home
Reached the airport then started the endless wait for our flight. Later we came to know the comedy of the situation. Eventhough our Delhi flight was in Bangalore airport, our pilot was stuck up in Mumbai airport thanks to the new terminal inauguration by our beloved PM ;). Hence passengers from 2 flights were made to wait endlessly, those from our flight and the ones who were returning back to Mumbai in the same flight in which our pilot was supposed to come to Bangalore :D. People got impatient and they started arguing with the Indigo crew and finally we got our flight ready to fly at 7.30 pm. But this also meant that we were going to miss our connecting 10pm train to Haridwar, which surprisingly was on time :). This phenomenon happened during the entire duration of the trip. The means of transport we would be traveling would always be delayed and the connecting train would always be on time :P.



A Partially frozen stream
Called our Trek The Himalayas organizer (Rakesh Pant) and he organized 2 Innova taxis to take us to Haridwar. This also meant that our economy trip suddenly got upgraded to luxury status :P.  To add salt to our wounds the flight journey was bad with cramped seating thanks to 2 loud kids in the row behind us which meant we couldn't sleep nor push back our seats. Anyway reached Delhi airport at around 10.30pm and thankfully it was free of any fog formation yet. Synced up with the taxi drivers and then a very event-less ride to Haridwar. Had dinner enroute at a dhabha at 2am in the night !!!!!! :P

Camp at Chitrakana


Reached Haridwar at 5am much ahead of the train we missed :P. The temperature was dropping at each instance we were moving nearer to the Himalayas. Changed cabs in here, met the other trek mates and then started again the boring  day long 250 km drive to Auli, our trek base camp. The routes enroute was damaged to a great extent thanks to the June 2013 Uttarakhand floods. Because of the same Uttarakhand is right now witnessing a very lean tourist season, which is one of the chief contributors to its economy. Even the famous restaurants like the Chotiwalas in Rishikesh were having a handful of tourists in them. Hopefully things would improve soon. One of the vehicles soon developed a snag and without much  surprise we were delayed again :P. But thanks to this we were to witness a great view of Chamoli town at night from the highway. Reached Auli close to 9pm and with the help of  near full moon we were able to see our first snow capped peak of the trip. Auli was literally freezing and surprisingly Auli was much colder than at any point of the trek, even though we climbed to much higher altitudes in the wilderness. Even with room heaters on and very thick chadars we had a very disturbed sleep.



Camp at Tali


On the morning of Jan 12th we started the trek to Kauri pass. Everyone took a shower, the luxury of which wouldn't be available for the next 4 days. Even though the temperatures at Auli was near freezing and it being projected as a ski resort, it was totally void of any snowfall this season. But on the other hand the views we get from this place of the snow capped peaks are simply awesome, reminiscent of the views we were expected to get during the course of the trek. We drove down to Tapovan from where our trek would begin. The entire trek route was dotted with sun kissed grasslands , rustic villages and with the backdrop of Mt Dronagiri. Further our guide showed us a flat hill which according to legend was from where Hanuman cut the Sanjeevani mountain in order to save Laxman. And becoz of this a village on the foothills of this mountain got really pissed and have not worshiped Hanuman from generations !!!!! :P.







By afternoon we reached the camping spot for the day which was Chitrakana which provided some great views. From here onwards starts the snow fields which were a constant companion for the next 3 days of the trek. After having our lunch we went in search of logs for our bonfire in order to save us from the cold. This activity became unexpectedly thrilling when we as a group got a huge dead tree trunk and got it down from the mountain, rolling it downhill and running and jumping along with it :P. Once the bonfire was on we spent time around it playing dumb charades and singing around it. We had a love-hate relationship with these bonfires... too near and it becomes too hot, too far and you will feel terribly cold, hence we had to be at the optimum distance and as expected those spots had the highest demand.Nights were cold, but with 3 people stuffed in each tent and each provided with sleeping bags and thermal inners, it was quite comfortable.



Our Destination Kuari Pass in Sight
The second day we had to travel through the dense Oak forests with snow lying on the ground. Narnia land is what I could think of... truly magical !!!!. This is exactly the reason for coming for a winter trek, where you encounter snow in middle of forests and not just in high altitude grasslands which is the norm in summer. Soon enough everyone were involved in snow fights, making snowman, skiing and what not. But on this day Rajkumar on his first Himalayan trek ran out of steam and had a hard time keeping up. Ironically he was racing ahead along with the mules the previous day and pretty much was abusing us for not keeping up the speed :D. Finally we reached our camp site name Tali top which would be our camp site for the next 2 days. It was in the midst of a heavy forest and even-though it was void of any views there was a sense of coziness in this place. Spent the remainder of the day playing some endurance games and without much surprise I fared badly in them :P. The night was even more magical with the moonlight getting reflected from the snow laden forest to give that soft eerie glow :).

@Peak
Sumiteers


The entire duration of the trek we were made to follow the 6-7-8 rule. Getting woken up at 6am with a bed tea, going out to finish our morning work , a simple job which becomes a bit complex with the biting cold :P. Have breakfast at 7,  start packing and leave the campsite at 8. On the third day was when we would summit the Kauri Pass (at 13990 ft above sea level). With Rajkumar completely steamed out he decided to return back to Auli. With 4 layers of clothing to protect we started the ascent with the initial section being via forest and then via bugyals ie open grasslands where one would get some great views of the snow clad mountains. But at some sections it was snowed out to such an extent that there was nearly 2 ft of snow for us to wade through, hence making the climb making somewhat an effort with all that resistance. At some places there would a layer of ice formed on the path instead of snow and these were the most dangerous sections where one would get no such grip from their shoes. Slowly we neared our destination along with the Indiahikes team who where on an exploratory trek to this place.  We crossed the spot which is known generally as the Kuari Pass and moved further to the actual Kuari Pass. But just as we were nearing the pass, we saw that a concrete bridge build by the authorities to cross a steep section had been destroyed by an avalanche. And any alternate route was totally iced out making it a dangerous affair without any cramp-ons. Hence we decided to climb a peak which was next to the Kuari pass and supposedly 100ft taller than the pass.





We retraced our path a bit and then started the final assault to our destination. The view from the top was simply great. We even went topless in the biting cold to celebrate,  a tradition we started during the Goechala Trek days :P. Except for Rajkumar, the remaining 8 of us managed to reach the top. After spending close to half an hour we started the descent back. But during this an old running knee injury raised its ugly head out of nowhere. So the return back to the camp was a bit painful with my knee pain making it a bit uncomfortable. Reached the camp exhausted with almost 7 hrs of trek and were greeted with hot onion pakoras and steaming tea. These small luxuries at the right time make life all the more enjoyable :P.  Since majority of us were tired we were soon off to bed after our dinner. It pretty much snowed all night. But one weird thing about snowfall is that when it snows the temperature would be way above the freezing point, but the moment it stops the temperature drops drastically below the freezing point. Something new I learned about weather :P.

Walking over a frozen lake
Dangerous Section: Narrow Path, Steep Drop, Iced out slippery track
The next day was the last day of the trek. With just 4 days of actual trekking this is our shortest Himalayan trek. We were to return to Auli via a different route through Gorson Bugyal. Even though it was d last day of trekking it was packed with adventure. First crossing of a frozen lake, then walking through narrow ledges with steep drops and slippery icy surfaces, then crossing very deep snowed out areas and finally the violent snow-fight with the fellow trek mates :P. For the first time we got the view of Mt. Nanda Devi, India's tallest peak entirely within its boundary and second overall after Mt. Kanchenjunga. Here the snow was of different kind. The top surface would be a layer of brittle and hard ice and when one steps through it, it breaks and sucks ones leg through the soft and powdery snow. Again it was an effort walking through this. As we reached gorson bugyal the snow started to thin out and when we reached the tree line the snow had totally disappeared. Further when we reached Auli, there was no sign of snow in this Ski resort. Reached back to our guest house, had a hot shower, rested a bit, played a bit and pretty much relaxed the remainder of the day.  But soon enough we were to encounter Auli's first snowfall of the season. I suppose the snow followed us to Auli :P. It pretty much snowed the entire night. With that I guess the Ski season in Auli is going to open officially.

Mt. Nanda Devi


The next day was again the boring day long journey back to Rishikesh. Just before boarding our cabs, 3 of us (Me, manju, shashi) had some some nasty fall with the slippery ice formation on the roads. I had infact fallen around half a dozen times during this trip :P.  Reached Rishikesh by nightfall and booked rooms in Hotel Ganga adjacent to Trek The Himalayas office and also Jumpin Heights office from where we were planning to bungy jump the next day. For dinner we went to the New Chotiwala's which is situated across the Ganges and a subsidiary of the original one. The restaurant was sparsely populated, but we had a great dinner thanks to Shashi and SK for treating us :).  Majority of the next day went for bungy jumping. Except for Harsha and Manju SR everyone did it.  5 of us did it in the morning and SK and Senthil did it in the afternoon after seeing our videos :P. The jump location is about 1 hr drive from Rishikesh and they have a shuttle service from their office to the place. More details of the jump here . After the jump we went to the original Chotiwala across the river for our brunch and did some shopping along with it. By  4pm we were all set to catch the train to Jhansi from Haridwar , with 9 of us plus the luggage stuffed into a single auto :P.

Gorson Bugyal
Auli
We reached the station on time, but again our train was delayed. Finally it arrived almost 4 hrs late and overnight it managed a delay of 6 hrs behind schedule. Now we were really tensed up,  since we had to catch our train to Bangalore from Jhansi and the time difference between the two trains were exactly 6 hrs. Thankfully the second train got delayed by 10 mins and we were able to catch it. We thanked our lucky stars since it would have been a real headache if we missed our train back to Bangalore. The next 32 hrs we spent watching movies, playing cards in endless loop and catching up on sleep. Reached back to Bangalore on 19th Jan at around 8pm. Shared a taxi back to our homes.


Since we started our Himalayan affair in 2010 we have made sure we had an regular yearly visit, except for the year 2013. Hence the first thing we did in 2014 was to restart our "pilgrimage". Of all the places I have visited so far I have not found any place more serene and majestic than the Himalayas. Its like an addiction and something which pulls us year on year to conquer more and more peaks, trails and passes. With this being my 4th Himalayan trip, I still havnt had enough of these mountains......... पिक्चर अभी बहुत बहकी है मेरे दोस्त !!!!! :)

< Video Collection >

Group Snap with Certificates

Trek Details --->
Total Trek Distance--> 35kms
Difficulty Level --->Moderate (thanks to heavy snow, else without it its an easy and much shorter trek)
Total Cost Per Head --> 23k (inclusive of transportation, food, bungy and stay)

Trek Organizer ------>  http://www.winterkuaripass.com/

Snaps Link ------>
https://plus.google.com/photos/112114250378515450499/albums/5973121753313796673?authkey=CO6RjrC-zZ-SrQE
https://plus.google.com/photos/111320158121404479282/albums/5970696328338173217
https://plus.google.com/photos/116816014473931339793/albums/5975321715819428097
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/109474193633253188080/albums/5975651358084131985

June 13, 2012

Goechala TreK : In The Shadow Of Mt.Kanchenjunga



Its summer again!!!! and its time to keep our annual date with the Himalayas. After exploring the central region of these majestic mountains(Roopkund Trek 2010, Uttarakhand) which was followed by exploring the upper reaches (Ladakh Bike Trip, J&K), it was time to explore the eastern Himalayas. And going by what was on offer from our previous trek organizer (Indiahikes), only Goechala trek(Sikkim) fit the bill and GOECHALA TREK it was. This was exactly how we shortlisted our trek, no reviews, no difficulty level, no total duration etc was taken into consideration. Finally we were 10 guys after a lot of addition and deletion (SK, PPR, Vineeth, harsha, Manju, Harish, Nagi, Senthil, Adarsh and Myself). After we got enrolled for this trek subsequent curiosity exposed us to the 2 prime attractions of this trek , first was the full bloom of rhododendrons in the month of May and the other was the views of Kanchenjunga Mountain , the 3rd tallest in the world and India's tallest.

17-May-2012- Bangalore->Kolkata


In order to save a leave we guys had decided to travel to Kolkata on an evening flight and take an overnight train to NJP. 6hrs in office and this topped with a team outing in BBQ meant I never bothered to work for the entire day. Caught a taxi from our office at around 2.30 pm and we were off to the airport, the beginning of our 13 day vacation. Flight was scheduled at 5.40 pm and everything was fine until I came to the security check. There the CISF soldier saw my Forclaz 500 Ventiv shoes (the best trekking shoe I ever had :) ) and then saw me and said "Aapka Jootha Katharnak Hai , Aur Aap bhi Khatarnak Ho" and he made me remove my shoes for more detailed check. And the funny part is of the 10 guys in our group 5 others were wearing the same model and none of them were made to remove :P.

Flight journey was boring , with SK seated next to me flirting with a girl seated next to him for the entire duration of the flight. Landed in Kolkata and directly took prepaid taxi's to Sealdah railway station. As we snaked through the streets of Kolkata, the first impression one gets is of decay of this once glorious city and the region around Sealdah looked like a dark underbelly of the city. Had our food in the station itself and got onboard the train. One observation I did in the station was people lining up and maintaining a queue to get to the general compartment of a train. Now where else in India would you see that....where people scramble to get the best seats. Boarded our train TO NJP (Padatik Express), which left Kolkata around 10.55 pm. Then came a couple of eunuch's who where very aggressive when compared to those in South India. But still in the   end we were victorious :P.

18-May-2012-Kolkata->NJP->Singtam


 Reached NJP station at around 9.45 am . By this time our taxi driver for the day was waiting for us. Our plan was to go till Gangtok and do some sighting in and around it. But unfortunately the day ended in a disappointment. All 10 of us were stuffed into a single sumo vehicle and as expected it was cramped. The taxi driver first took us to a shanty restaurant, which according to him was a great place to have food. The food was super bad and later we came to know that eatery was run by his parents hence his inclination and recommendation. Within 1.5 hrs of leaving NJP begin the hills, the mighty Himalayas and this double lane highway (NH 31A) is the lifeline of Sikkim since this state is devoid of any railway lines or airports. So all the goods are to be moved via this small highway.

As we were nearing Gangtok, some 15 km before it there was a huge traffic jam. After waiting for some couple of hours we came to know that this highway was intentionally blocked by the Sikkim-Manipal University students in order to make others listen to their demands. Eventhough we never came to know what their demands were,  we were really pissed off at them for ruining our plans. Dejected we decided to return back to the nearest town ie Singtam and stay there for the night. We were put up in Hotel Shimma , which was pretty decent right in the heart of the town. Roamed around market during the night and had a great momos filled dinner before calling it a day.


19-May-2012-Singtam->Yuksom

Thasiding Gompa



With the plan of just reaching Yuksom, our base camp of the trek we started a bit late. We also had plans to check out a couple of Buddhist monasteries enroute. First we came across a monastery near the town of Rambok where we also had some lip-smacking momos. This monastery was small and we covered it in no time. The next monastery was Thasiding gompa and for this our driver stopped in the main road and made 6 of us to walk the last 3 kms. After walking uphill for 45 mins we reached the gompa and it was pretty huge. There were a lot of stuff to be explored and this is supposedly one of the oldest gompa's in Sikkim. Spent close to an hour exploring the place , with this place being adorned by a lot of prayer flags.




















Now officially we had done some sight seeing, the first after 3 days of just plain travelling. Finally at around 4.30 pm we reached Yuksom. And this was the first time in the entire trip when we brought out the warm clothes. Yuksom is infact a small town and the first capital of Sikkim almost 300 years ago. In our trek batch there were a total of 24 individuals, but we were the first group that arrived at the base camp. Met the Indiahikes trek leaders Amit Pandey and Preetham. Were served with hot onion pakodas and in such a weather setting felt awesome. Had an evening walk to Yuksom bazaar which was around 2kms from the base camp.Finally by nightfall all the 24 guys reached the base camp and by night fall there was an introduction session. First there were the "3 lamas" Ramesh , Rajan and Sandeep, the inseparable buddies in Madhuri and Kirtana, a true lover of Sikkim in Sanjay, the second most dominating group (apart from us :D) in Hemal, Shantala, Megha, Gandhi, Raghu and Dhiren, and the superfit Anirudh and Ram. Finally came back , did some repacking since tmrw was the D-Day for the trek.



20-May-2012 (Trek Day 1): Yuksom(1950m) -> Sanchem(2300m) (2.5hrs)

Start of the Trek
The first day of our trek. We were all set since 7am , but due to some delay in getting permission from the local police station the departure was delayed till 10. By around 11 am we started the trek. Initial part of the trek takes us past a number of local plantations and later on starts the steep drops. There was a suspended bridge across a rivulet and as mentioned by a board, we were now entering the Khangchendzonga national park. Soon there was greenery everywhere and we were traversing through dense forest. All the food supplies and tents were to be carried by mules and zho's (a cross between yak and ox), but our personal belongings were to be carried by us. One could put their bags on the mules , but that required a payment of 200/bag/day. I obviously didn't go for this since there is a question of pride whether u carried your own backpack or not. Infact I intentionally made the bag as heavy as possible even stuffing it with a jacket shopped in the last moment(Got an original North Face Jacket for 1.4k at Yuksom, ofcourse Chinese made thanks to the sole direct trade link between India and China passing via Sikkim), in the end making it almost 10kgs. My logic was more the weight more will be my endurance buildup :P.




















But one thing that really irritated us out of senses where the damn insects. They are millions in number and they literally bite away any exposed skin. By the end of the trek my arms had so many bites that it resembled some sort of skin disease. Some others were worse hit due to constant scratching.  Got acquainted with our local guide Pemtuk and got to know a lot of local stories from him over the entire period of the trek. About how Kanchenjunga is considered as a goddess for Sikkimese and climbers not given permission to climb from the Indian side so on. Probably the best guide we had in all of my treks. A very humble guy indeed. Anyway the trek for this particular day was just 2.5 hrs. It was over before it started and we had reached the camping ground for the day, which was Sanchem, the worst case scenario which we had to endure for the entire trek. This place was outright dirty, with humans and beasts (read mules, zho's) jostling for a small clearing in the forest. Hence as expected the entire place is plastered with dung and cherry on the cake being the irritating biting insects. This meant we spent the majority of the time inside the tents. But by nightfall the temperature dropped and the insects too went into hibernation. Had a very clear night to observe and admire the star filled moonless night.



21-May-2012 (Trek Day 2): Sanchem->Bankhim->Tsokha (2900m) (4.5hrs)




















The day started with us searching for the perfect spot to complete our morning chores , followed by some stretching exercises since on this particular day we were to negotiate through decent climbs. Vineeth who is our mascot of silliness, sprained his ankle when he was roaming around the rough terrain in his bathroom slippers. Initially it looked like a minor setback, with Vineeth almost running along the first group for the entire duration of trek until Bankhim. The climb from Sanchem to Bankhim was pretty steep and we took our sweet time covering it. Even then we were the leading group. At Bankhim there is a restaurant kinda setting with some great views of the valley below. The first great view we witnessed for the trek. Decided to rest here a bit waiting for the others to catch up.

A flower and wild strawberries in the background

                                                                           

By this time Vineeths ankle condition had deteriorated. He was not even able to stand up let alone trek. After a few painkillers, massages and crepe bandage we restarted the trek with Vineeth running again :P. Now we were entering the land of wild strawberries. There were lots and lots of them carpeted along the meadows, a pretty sight indeed with the red berries in full contrast with their green background. Finally we reached Tsokha at around 1.15 pm. This location was much better than Sanchem which some great views of the valley below. Also from here we were able to see the first snow peak : Mt.Pandim. Rest of the evening was spent inside the trekkers hut with all the trekkers singing songs - a sangeet kacheri in short :).


Our Candlelit Dinner Table
Tsokha











22-May-2012  (Trek Day 3): Tsokha->Phethang->Dzongri (3950m) (5hrs)


 
                                                      Violet


white


Supposedly the toughest day of trekking sans the summit day on Day 6 as described by the guides. The day started quite early exactly at dawn (4.45 am :P) to catch the clear sky and  great views of Mt. Pandim. As the sun was rising, these was a golden glow on the face of Mt. Pandim which was a real beauty. Usually in the morning the sky would be totally clear with not a single cloud in sight, but as the day progressed  the entire trek path would be engulfed in mist. This was the norm for the next 6 days of the trek. We were happy that atleast in the mornings we were getting some awesome views. After absorbing the views we started the trek at around 8 am. Soon after Tsokha there is a steep climb and soon enough start the famed wooden pathways through the rhododendron forests. On this day we were to witness numerous types and colors of flowers. We found rhododendron flowers primarily in 5 colors (pink, yellow,red, violet and white) and these flowers adorn the entire path of the trek, a very pretty sight indeed.

Sunrise On Mt.Pandim
Wooden Pathways



















Further we were to gain an altitude of close to 1000 mts to reach Dzongri and the entire climb is uphill almost till the end. Once the rhododendron  forests begin the entire pathway is engulfed in mist and also there is lot of slush along the trek route. After a couple of hrs of trek we reached Phethang and this place is one of most beautiful camp sights around. The entire surroundings has meadows flanked by rhododendrons trees of all colors in all the four directions. Unfortunately we were not camping here. Resting here for some 20 mins it was the climb towards Dzongri. Now the route between Phethang and Dzongri was steep, pretty much tiring us out. Finally reached Dzongri at around 2 pm and from here onwards the temperature became very chilly. Soon enough one by one everyone started to trickle in and we had our lunch.



@Phethang



















By then Sandeep had developed some breathing problem and was the last to arrive at the camp at around 6pm. There were signs of AMS and it was decided that he would stay put there the next day, and Amit and Preetham also decided to stay with him. Later I came to know that his condition had deteriorated and he was taken back. According to Amit  and quite shocking to us, they were about to loose him , but thanks to a timely intervention by an army doc his condition improved. Hence from this day onwards till the end of the trek Pemtuk became our trek leader and did a real commendable job.

Phethang                                        


Dzongri

23-May-2012 (Trek Day 4): Dzongri-Dzongri Top (4050m)->Dzongri->Kockchurang->Thensing (3750m) (1.5+4.5hrs)




 [View From Dzongri Top]


@Dzongri Top




















Day by day our wake up time was getting earlier in order to enjoy clear views. Got up at around 4am and it was time to trek up till Dzongri Top , where one gets a 240 degree view of snow capped peaks including the Mt.Kanchenjunga which we were hopping to see for the very first time. The climb to the Dzongri top is around 40 mins, but it is pretty steep. By the time I reached the top I was breathless partly bcoz it was steep and partly bcoz I didn want to miss the sunrise , hence ran the entire climb. The views from the Dzongri top is simply amazing. It is like a rice bowl surrounded by snow peaks in almost all the directions. There is Kumbakarna, Kabru South, Kabru North, Kabru Dome, Black Kabru, Kanchenjunga, Pandim, Jaipan and so many peaks. When the sun started to come out, one by one the tips of the numerous peaks where lit up in golden glow. A truly majestic sight indeed. The sensation of the sun rays warming our frozen bodies is truly an amazing experience. After spending considerable time in here we returned back to Dzongri. Packed our bags and started the trek towards our camping site for the day Thensing.



Some weird looking Rainbow



















Initial part of the trek was via bugyals but frankly speaking bugyals during Roopkund trek were much more breathtaking and beautiful. Slowly as the trek progressed we were yet again engulfed in mist and devoid of any views. After a flat gradient trek there was a steep descent to Kokchurong. A very beautiful place, dense mist filled forests, gurgling and wild Rathong Chu river and thick carpet of grass and flowers on the floor. Due to this setting the temperature was real low and we were frozen within no time. Next stop was Thensing and the initial part of the journey takes us along the banks of the river. Then there is a pretty decent climb all the way to Thensing. Reached the campsite at around 1.30 pm. As the trek was progressing the average temperature was going down exponentially day by day.




















Thensing is a valley along the river Rathong Chu, having huge steep mountains on either sides. The valley is covered with meadows. Rest of the day was spent inside the tents playing cards, mafia etc since the outdoors seemed too cold for our liking.

@Kokchurang
By the banks of Rathong Chu























24-May-2012  (Trek Day 5): Thensing->Lamuney (3950m)->Samiti Lake (4050m)->Lamuney (4hrs)


@Thensing


















The initial part of the trek was the easiest we had anytime. We were to gain just a couple of hundred metre elevation and reach  Lamuney, our final camping site before we attempt the Goechala pass. Lamuney was just across the valley and was infact very much visible from Thensing. Many of us walked in a leisurely pace so as to take as much time as possible. After reaching Lamuney, we dumped our bags and as preplaned started a small excursion to the serene Samiti lake at 4050 m so as to speed up the acclimatization process.



Samiti Lake
The trek upto Samiti takes just about 45 mins and within no time we were getting views of the turquoise watered lake nestled between mountains on 3 sides. We spent some time close to the banks of this glacial lake and when the visibility became very bad decided to return back to camp at Lamuney.

Mist at Samiti
View of our campsite @ Lamuney + The River to which I Fell



















As with the previous day we were nestled up inside the tents for obvious reasons. The next day we were to attempt Goechala pass by getting up at 2am , an unearthly hour indeed. So for some more obvious reasons we had to do the morning chores in the evening itself. This meant we had to cross the river flowing by the campsite to get to the other side for some privacy. But while returning back unfortunately I fell directly into the ice cold river, trying to while cross by jumping over the slippery stones. The water was freezing like hell, and got a bad blow to my hip which pained for a couple of days. Within no time ran to my tent and changed my clothes. It looked like even God wanted me to take a bath after 6 days of deprivation :P. But as soon as I removed my clothes the body became very warm , with me wearing just a T-shirt for the next couple of hours. Some guys said it was the adrenaline rush thanks to the shock of falling into freezing water. Strange phenomenon indeed :). But my biggest worry was  my shoe was completely wet and I didnt have any spares. Used the same wet shoe the next day while summiting. Even though it was very uncomfortable had no other choice.

25-May-2012 (Trek Day 6): Lamuney->Samiti Lake->View Point 1 (4450m) -> Goechala Pass(View Point 2) (4940m) ->Lamuney->Thensing (12hrs)


View Pt 1
[View Pt 1]
The big day finally arrived. We were supposed to leave the camp at 2am in the morning, but as the Indian standard time goes we left at only 2.45am. One more batch consisting of slow movers had left earlier at 1.45 am. All this weird unearthly timing was inorder to catch the sunrise (we had become big suckers for sunrises :P) at view point 1. The initial trek using torchlight and in freezing temperature was an great experience in itself. It was a clear night, with millions of stars in the night sky. Once in the while there would be a lightning in some distant clouds and this would instantly illuminate the snow covered and imposing Mt.Kanchenjunga right in that pitch darkness. An awesome sight to behold. Soon enough we reached Samiti lake and the trek route climbs the mountains flanking it.



After a steep climb of around 2hrs we finally reached the view point 1 just in time to view the sunrise. The entire mountain ranges were again illuminated by the morning sun. After spending some time at this place in near zero temp we decided to move further to view point 2 which is supposedly not as easy as view point 1 (which is comparatively easy). Of the 22 who attempted View Point 1 , 14 of us decided to move on to View Point 2. In our group Adarsh and Manju decided to return back. Manju was suffering from blocked nose/throat and decided not to push , which might have been dangerous in these conditions.

The Guide: Pemtuk


Goecha Lake from View Pt 2
Finally Made it. Mt Kanchenjunga in Background

























After view pt 1 there is a steep descent after which we enter a cold desert. Now the landscape very much resembled of what we had seen in Ladakh. Dry, cold and sandy. These sand-dunes were running nearly for a km after which starts the 700 m climb to View Point 2. Saw a herd of mountain goats , the only four legged wild animal we saw apart from a yak. The final climb to the View Pt 2 was steep and added to the fact that our altitude was close to 4600m making the oxygen deficiency much more relevant. The sun was also shining very bright. Me and harish were climbing up the final section almost 800m distance (not altitude) to the peak . At this time our guide Pemtuk came from behind and told us to hurry up else Mt. Kanchenjunga would be covered in mist. Now with this both me and harish started to run. Imagine running uphill at 4700+  m altitude. Anyway by the time we reached the view pt 2 the mist had just started to cover Mt. Kanchenjunga, but nevertheless we got some superb views. Mt. Kanchenjunga was never nearer. Made the entire hardship and effort totally worth it :).

Mountain Sparrow
Topless At Goechala View Point 2 :)













[View Point 2]  

From view point 2 apart from Kanchenjunga one can also enjoy the views of Goecha Peak and Goecha lake(another glacial lake)  and Mt. Pandim to our rear. This was the only part of the trek where we came across snow and guys like Harish , Nagi and Senthil who were seeing it for the first time were into it within a flash. We were able to hear sounds of constant avalanches and these were so loud that it felt as if a bomb was going off. At this point SK and Vineeth had a bet of going topless if they reach the final destination and for this even me and harish joined in gladly. Going topless in subzero temp :P..... it was fun. But within seconds of taking the snaps we were back into our multi layered warm protectors. Spent close to an hour at the top absorbing the views and then it was time to return back.

The Return Path



















While descending, for most of the journey, I was walking all alone till view point 1 and it was a great experience walking through the cold desert. Met with PPR who had come almost till the peak , but had to return back just 20 mins from it after suffering from breathing problem again to throat infection. He was not feeling good so 2 of us along with Vineeth decided for a slow and relaxed return. We reached Samiti lake  and spent some time near it. Finally we descended back to Lamuney  at around 1pm taking close to 10 hrs for the entire trek. Was really proud of our team since majority of us completed the trek without an ounce of diamox ;). Also this was the batch with highest no of view pt 2 summiters (12) when compared to the earlier Indiahikes batches (3,2 respectively :P.)

The Desert Area

[The Desert]


Back To Samiti lake
After resting for some time and having our lunch, we packed our bags and it was time to return back to Thensing. Yet again the entire path was covered in mist and our visibility was no more than couple of meters.  Reached thensing and rested the remainder of the day in order to compensate for the 12 hr strenuous trek  since 2.45 am ;).

A Yak

26-May-2012  (Trek Day 7): Thensing->Kockchurang->Phethang->Tsokha (6hrs)


Kokchurang



















A long day indeed for many. Day started with PPR not feeling well. So decided to put his bag on a yak. Now we were retracing our path all the way to Kokchurang and I cant get enough of this place. Since I still had some battery backup (had got 5 sets of camera battery backup :P) was shooting anything that moved or which didnt move. We reached Kokchurang and it was ever so beautiful. But who could have guessed that this place has a shady past according to the locals. More details on this later.

The Haunted House
Narrow Pathways



















After reaching Kokchurang we took a different path to Phethang bypassing the Dzongri route. This route was narrow and steep and hence all the yaks and mule take the Kokchurang -Dzongri- Phethang route. The entire path was full of ups and down and at innumerable places there were landslides along the way. Initially along the Kokchurang - Phethang route I was going with the group, but soon enough Me, Sk and Adarsh decided to pump it up a bit and we started running along the route. But soon enough was tired and decided to trek in a relaxed fashion. With SK and Adarsh  ahead and out of sight, I was all alone. I was intentionally going very slow so that some trekker could meet up with me. But the entire duration of the 3 hr trek I couldnt meet a single soul. This path was a bit eerie too, with mist everywhere , super dense forest and very narrow pathway.


Phethang
After a long solitary trek met again with the SK and Adarsh at Phethang. I decided to rest a bit here and they continued towards Tsokha. Again I waited for someone to catch up. But after 15 mins of wait I got bored and decided to push ahead. The route to Phethang and Tsokha was slussy as ever. Yet again it was a solitary trek till I reached Tsokha. So in short I had trekked almost 5 hrs of the 6 hr trek all alone :P. Reached Tsokha and then started our wait for others. For 2 whole hours there was not an ounce of news. Then some yak-man came and informed us that some tall , lanky guy is having some problems. We concluded in no time that it was PPR. And so on continued our wait. Finally at around 6.15 almost 4 hrs after we arrived did the group start to trickle in. Got the news that PPR had blacked out due to exhaustion soon after Kokchurang and the other's had a tough time of getting him to Tsokha. Finally our guide and co had got him making him ride piggy back on them, since Yaks/Mules cannot be taken in this narrow path.


After reaching Tsokha his condition improved a bit. After nightfall our guide Pemtuk came and told the local folklore about the Kokchurang trekker-hut being haunted by a ghost, whom many locals supposedly had seen and felt. So when PPR blacked out Pemtuk was damn sure that he was possessed by some ghost. Also he told abt some german who died near the hut, whose body was never recovered, but just his trekking stick and bottle. So on he went with a number of stories of majorly bengalis and german's who had died in and around that spot.  For heavens sake I trekked all alone for 3 hrs in that region :P. What if the ghost had possessed me ????? :P.

My hand post the bites :P

27-May-2012 (Trek Day 8): Tsokha->Sanchem->Yuksom (4.5hrs)


A Piggyback Ride In Progress
The final day of the trek. Since PPR's condition was still bad it was decided that he would be carried as piggy back all the way to Yuksom by porters. Now this is a 6 hrs trek from Tsokha , and we were apprehensive, but they were confident of reaching Yuksom within 3.5 hrs. As soon as they started they started running carrying PPR. They alternated between 3 of them. Me, Vineeth, Sk and Harish were trying to match their pace but it was a very difficult job. It was as if we ran the entire duration of the trek from Tsokha to Yuksom. All my clothes were wet, dripping with sweat !!!! :P. But it was a different experience thanks to PPR :) . I was trying to imagine what would be their pace if the load was not there, pretty much untouchables to us. Even on uphills their pace was much better than ours. Finally our blitzkrieg trek came to an end at around 1 pm taking totally 4.5 hrs to cover the distance cutting it short by 1.5 hrs :P. Had a final sprint and victory dance after completing the trek , which provided free entertainment to many locals :P.

Trek Finally Completed
Pemtuk Saab ;)
Soon enough PPR and Vineeth(with his leg still giving him trouble) went to a local hospital. And it was diagnosed as sheer exhaustion with inadequate food and fluids. Had my first bath in 8 days and when everyone had arrived we had a thanking ceremony (with cash rewards) for all the support staff in general and Pemtuk and co in particular for their exemplary service. Soon after this went to Yuksom bazaar and tried some local drinks (thumba---blaaahhhh) and dishes. Slept in a proper cozy bed after a long time.. felt like heaven :).

Group Snap - Trekkers + Support Staff
Drinking Thumba

28-May-2012 - Yuksom -> NJP


Veg-Momos
Got up quiet early in the morning, got ready and it was time to start the return journey and  leave Yuksom behind. Adarsh had booked a flight from Bagdogra since his RAC train ticket was still not confirmed and he was in no mood to travel again sitting the whole night. So that left 9 of us. We had booked a more spacious Mahindra Max and plan was to reach NJP by evening. We had some yummy momos at Legship and also visited one Shiva temple in here. After that we had plans of doing some shopping at Jorethang, but thanks to none of us having cash and all the ATM's here going strangely out of order we had no option to try to do it at NJP/Siliguri. God knows whether the ghosts of Kokchurang had any hand in this :P.


Reached NJP station at around 5pm with plenty of time for our 9pm train. We decided to hitch a ride to the Siliguri market which is around 15 mins  and Rs 10 away in a shared auto. Roamed around the market, did some Tea and T-shirts shopping. One point of observation is that Bong females are much more beautiful than I thought them to be. I found a lot of head-turners while roaming around in the market ;). We went back to the station and caught the train back to Kolkata.

29-May-2012 Kolkata->Bangalore

Howrah Bridge
We reached Kolkata at around  7.30 in the morning , not before getting assaulted yet again by the same eunuchs who did so in the onward journey. Total 4 encounters and 0 bucks paid. Totally proud of it :P. Kolkata was hot at 42 degrees and humid, but it was time for some sight seeing. We decided to hire 2 taxi's to take us to Howrah bridge and drop us off at Victoria Memorial. Howrah bridge sightseeing was just a drive through without any stop and the driver took us to some other bridge named "Vidyasagar" and finally dropped off in front of Victoria Memorial , after those 2 taxi's ripped us for 500 bucks each :P.

Victoria Memorial
At the entrance of the memorial there was heavy security and all of us with huge trekking backpacks were checked much to our inconvenience. Literally our dirty linen where brought out in the public. Initial 1 hr we explored the outer structure, which was quiet impressive(since this was built to rival the Taj Mahal :P) and when the indoor museum opened at 10 we had an express tour of 40 mins (which was all about the British legacy in India) since we had a 2 pm flight to catch. Unfortunately KKR had won the IPL 5, which meant that there was going to be a huge rally within the city. Left Victoria Memorial at around 11.30 pm and missed getting stuck in the procession by a whisker. Caught Kolkata Metro sans AC and got down at Dum Dum station. From here hired cabs to the airport and reached at around 1.10 pm. In the security check I was yet again made to remove my shoes and none of the other 5 guys were made to do so .... Next time probably I should wear a board "I am Nithin and I am not a Terrorist" :P. Just before boarding the flights had our first meal of the day comprising samosas/sandwiches and cold drinks. The flight journey was eventless except for the part that I got a seat without push-back option (emergency door :( ). Reached Bangalore at around 4.50 and took a Volvo bus back home.

Finally a memorable trek came to an end and so is my travelogue, of course with an interesting quote graffited by some unknown person on trekker-hut's wall in Tsokha

"If you are not living on the edge, you are taking too much space"
hmmm....surely some food for thought :).



Trek Details --->
Total Trek Distance--> 83kms
Difficulty Level --->Moderate (for fit trekkers)
Total Cost Per Head -->24k (including trek charges, flight, train, taxi fares, shopping etc.)

Indiahikes website ---> http://www.goechala.com/home.html
Trek Route ------> (Courtesy Wikipedia) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goecha_La)

Pics Link --->
https://picasaweb.google.com/112114250378515450499/GoechalaTrekSikkim
https://picasaweb.google.com/104803450757964777769/SikkimGoechaLa#
https://picasaweb.google.com/102062402845384099827/GoechelaTrek?locked=true&feat=email

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